Salmon Fillet Sauteed on Its Skin

This recipe comes from Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.

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I enjoyed each of the public television shows that are the companion to this book. Julia and Jacques complement each other wonderfully as they cook and talk. I learned something new each time I watched.

This recipe caught my eye because of the way the skin of the salmon contracts when it hits the pan. You have got to see this!

During this same show Julia and Jacques each prepared version of Salmon en Papillote. Both were simple to prepare and looked delicious. Julia's was Julia's Salmon Fillet en Papillote with Shallots and Tomato. Jacques prepared Jacques's Salmon Fillet en Papillote with Zucchini, Carrot, and Shiitake Mushroom.

The garnish inspired me to the point that I took the garnish technique and applied to a dish this evening. It was a winner and I share it in Colby's Shrimp Sautéed with Capers and Lemon.

Now, on to Jacques's Salmon Fillet Sautéed on Its Skin

Unilatéral is the French term for this kind of sauté, and it has the same meaning as in English: one- sided. Put the salmon fillet in a hot pan; cover and cook for five minutes-no turning, until you flip it onto your serving plate. You'll marvel at the contrasting textures of the fillet, and with its crackling cap of seared skin and pink, tender flesh beneath.

The cookbook says that for this easy method to work, you must use a non-stick pan. I have found however that a stainless steel pan gives better results - a browner skin. Oh, be certain that the skin of the fillet has been scaled. You add no fat-the skin contracts immediately when it hits the pan and crisps on the hot bottom, while the flesh releases its fat and cooks in the moist atmosphere of the covered pan.

You can also use this method with other skin-on fillets, such as cod, red snapper, or sea bass. Finish the fillet with the zesty sautéed garnish of capers, onion, and lemon juice that we give here, or serve simply topped with a pat of herb or plain butter.

Yield: 1 fillet, serving 1

One 6-to-8 ounce salmon fillet, skin on, scaled	1/8 teaspoon salt or more
2 tsp unsalted butter	1/4 cup (loosely packed) very thin slivers of onion, about an inch long
1 to 2 tsp capers, drained	2 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Special equipment: An 8- or9-inch non-stick frying pan or sauté pan with a tight fitting cover

Set the pan over high heat for a minute, until quite hot. Season both side of the fillet with the salt and lay it skin side down in the dry pan. The skin will shrink on contact with the heat.

Cover the pan and cook for 5 to 7 minutes at medium-high heat, depending on the thickness of the fillet. Test for doneness by piercing the top with a sharp knife: the outside will flake but the center should still be rare and slightly translucent; the skin will be very crisp. Cook longer for a better done fillet.

With a long spatula, lift the fillet and flip it onto a dinner plate, with the cooked skin on top. Wipe out the pan with paper towels to remove the fat released by the salmon, and add the butter. As it melts, sauté the onion slivers for 1/2 minutes or so. add the capers and sauté briefly, tossing them with the onions, then swirl in the lemon juice, heating it for just a few seconds. Pour the sizzling garnish over the fillet, sprinkle on the chopped parsley, and serve immediately.